20mm SS Peadot

20mm SS Peadot

Postby Daryl » 26 Jan 2017

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Heres an indepth tutorial for (tan/khaki) SS peadot.

Big thanks to Matt (elhiem) for the inspiration with his German camo schemes and advice over the years.

Was going to do these figs (ab figures 20mm) in italian camo but I thought they were ideal candidates for peadot, the figures either side have their jackets already peadotted so you can always see the eventual outcome.... ive left the images larger than normal to allow you to see more detail.

Youll need the AK interactive m44 peadot paint set and the brown spot paint from the AK interactive autumn/winter ss set (I guess other browns would work but this is the one I use)

I'd also suggest getting Calvin Tans modelling waffenss figures book from osprey publishing, its good in showing how the colours are applied though all his colour mixes didnt represent the colours in his photographs.

I mix and keep my paint using the underside of the caps from the Moo Moo flavoured milks from aldis etc, they fit perfectly into some containers I bought from amazon, it means the paint can stay workable for a few days, especially helpful if you are mixing colours and are doing a large batch where you might not get everything done in one go.
My main brushes are proArte polar white nylon 4/0, very cheap and last as long as any expensive brand.

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STEP 1 : PRIME BLACK

Obvious step but il include everything, I brush prime my figs with vallejo black with plenty of water, starting with large brushes working my way to superfine as I wont paint until the coverage is 100% and no bare metal is visible, especially between items of equipment etc.

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STEP 2 : M44 BASE

I always add water to my paint so dont mind that base colours often take 2 or 3 coats to achieve the desired effect. I prefer this than painting with thick paint which requires constant cleaning of the brush.

1st coat
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2nd coat
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STEP 3 : BROWN SPOT WASH
I use the brown spot wash to basically change the tone of the base colour allowing the future light spots to be more effective, the brown spot wash creates quite an effective m44 uniform appearance.

I always do my washes on a flat piece to plastic and add a few drops of paint to a lot of water, far better to apply a few washes than one thick heavy one, stir the wash every couple of figures and dont worry if you dont see notable changes after the 1st application. The wash is applied over the whole of the painted base layer, does not matter if it goes over any black detail as its so watered down it doesnt show up.
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Ive only done the trousers in these 2 pics to show the difference a few coats of wash creates, as subtle tones are difficult to pic up with the camera and everyones monitor settings can be different I wanted to show the subtle change, its not drastic but you should see a browning effect after a wash or two... its not as brown as it appears in the images, id suggest doing half a figure or half a batch until you notice it starting to change then do the other half, you will be washing the figure again at a later stage so its not that important.
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Wash complete... all the fig is now washed and ready for the interesting stuff
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STEP 4 : DARK GREEN ISLANDS

For the dark green islands I use m44 dark green with a few drops of added black and the usual few drops of water, the dark green islands will be predominantly covered by light green spots and I found the m44 dark green wasnt dark enough on its own to effectively show the light green spots at this scale.

I usually now change brushes to 502 Abteilung 4/0 or 5/0 brushes as they tend to keep a point longer than the ProArte brushes.

Remember the islands will contain the dots so make them large enough to apply a few dots.

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Apply large dark green islands in irregular patterns over the figure, try not to replicate the same pattern on the left and right of the figure, if you do the forearm on the left side do the elbow on the right side, remember the islands have to be big enough to contain one or multiple dots at a later stage, also remember to do smaller islands at the edge of the clothing such as the bottom of the trousers and where the trousers meet the jacket, do one section of a pocket on one side and do the other part of a pocket on the other side, front of a collar one side and the side of the collar on the other side, basically make it irregular as possible and dont worry if something doesnt look right as you can sort it out later when applying all the dots.

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STEP 5 : LIGHT ISLANDS

Now paint the light islands using m44 light spots and dots.

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keep the islands irregular in shape and try to lighten different areas of the figure, but unlike the previous step I add more water than normal as I prefer to build up the light islands with 2 or 3 coats as I can get a faded effect with the more solid area in the middle, it hasnt translated in the pictures unfortunately, but its not that criticial a thing to achieve as the final wash will merge the colours together.

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STEP 6 : LIGHT DOTS

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The M44 light dots and spots this time has very little water added and I now use a 10/0 brush (though they are not much smaller than a 4/0)
I paint them as irregular as possible, avoid doing lines of dots. Cover whats left of the original base colour then add a dot or 2 to the dark green islands, give particular attention to between the legs as its easy to miss out areas, dont make the mistake of trying to do too many dots, I found at first when painting peadot I did the dots very small and many of them but I found fewer larger dots were more effective. And don't worry if you leave small areas as youll be painting dark spots and light green later.

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STEP 7 : DARK GREEN DOTS

The peadot begins to take shape with the dark green dots.

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Use the m44 dark green + black you mixed early and apply irregular dots over the light islands, also apply a few here and there over the base colour, don't always put the dots directly in the middle of an area but rather try and place them to one side.

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STEP 8 : LIGHT GREEN DOTS

The last stage of painting which brings the peadot into life.

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Using the M44 light green, paint dots over the dark green islands, once you done that place a dot here and there over the base and light islands, when it comes to the light green less if definitely more as the green stands out more than the other colours.

Now is a good time to check around the figure seeing if any of the colour dots can be added to anywhere you have missed, sometimes a single dot can create quite a different effect.

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STEP 9 : FINAL WASH

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Same as step 3, apply a very watered down wash using AK autumn/winter brown spot. Couple of light coats will just take the edge off the light islands and dot and will help to blend all the colours together.

I only paint peadot in small batches and every time it comes out a little bit different in tones which helps to promote the fact peadot camo come in many shades and colour tones.

Photos as always dont show the sublte tones and changes.
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Couple of pictures to give a better representation of the scake.

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Thats it guys, get on peadotting. :good: :hello:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 2/3 done but alas NOT COMPLETE

Postby Leigh » 29 Jan 2017

Thanks for this Daryl- really useful mate
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 2/3 done but alas NOT COMPLETE

Postby Ray » 29 Jan 2017

I am working on plain tree at the moment,nice guide mate. :thumbsup:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 2/3 done but alas NOT COMPLETE

Postby laurence strong » 29 Jan 2017

Many thanks for this. Been struggling with this for years......never been satisfied with my results!!


Looking forward to the completion.



Cheers
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 1 stage left to do. NOT COMPLETE

Postby Fig-man1 » 30 Jan 2017

Thanks for the great tutorial! I definitely need to give this a try.
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 1 stage left to do. NOT COMPLETE

Postby Olivier » 30 Jan 2017

already started..... beurk...funny résultats no so so...

thanks ever so much.. If you happen to pass by Dunkirk, shout, fresh beer available..
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot : 1 stage left to do. NOT COMPLETE

Postby jfariahitech » 30 Jan 2017

Thanks for sharing it.

Cheers.
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Daryl » 30 Jan 2017

All done chaps... I often get demoralised after painting the islands thinking they look shit, they only start coming to life with the dots...so dont give up until they are completely finished.
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Ray » 30 Jan 2017

Daryl wrote:All done chaps... I often get demoralised after painting the islands thinking they look shit, they only start coming to life with the dots...so dont give up until they are completely finished.


Nicely done mate, i have the same thing when i do plain-tree, did some on Saturday and today,they looked good when i was finished but i had serious doubts early on :lol:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Arvaker » 30 Jan 2017

Excellent tutorial! I look forward to testing it. My AK Interactive M-44 camouflage uniform paint set arrived today, ordered upon your recommendation. ;)
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby 7dot62mm » 30 Jan 2017

Sharing this is so very generous of you. Thank you so much sir! :hello:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby mausmann » 30 Jan 2017

Many thanx for this Daryl, most kind of you............ :thumbsup:
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It was a very old platitude, even then........
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby sundaysoldier » 31 Jan 2017

Nice tutorial ! You certainly put a lot of work in this, thank you :thumbsup:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Gunbird » 31 Jan 2017

Thank you Daryl, much appreciated :thumbsup:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Peterh » 31 Jan 2017

fantastic, thank you for taking the time to share your technique !
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Chris W » 31 Jan 2017

Thanks for taking the time to share Daryl.
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Powermonger » 31 Jan 2017

Thanks a lot for this Daryl! Most welcomed.
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby tayerigonzalez » 31 Jan 2017

superb tutorial
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby Olivier » 31 Jan 2017

I already said thanks... and i do mean it...

that is jolly helfull..

Now, sounds you have no choice but do the same with the Italian camo..... :good:
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Re: 20mm SS Peadot

Postby joefi » 31 Jan 2017

Thanks for the tutorial. Great Progress pics. Will help a lot of People.

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